guyâs legs were pinned underneath, and the UN tank didnât roll off . One of the UN guys was just looking around, calm, surveying the scene for a good few minutes, not emotional at all. He was looking each way while the guy was screaming . A woman was right next to our car yelling at the UN to get off the guy! There were maybe fifty people around. Everyone was yelling. Finally, the tank rolled off the guy and just rolled on down the street, leaving him there. Congolese people picked him up and dragged him out of the street. Then everyone turned toward our car, and they saw me sitting in the front seat. They saw my big sunglasses. Christine told me they thought my sunglasses were a video camera of some kind, they thought I was filming. They started to crowd around the car, screaming. Our driver just pulled out and escaped up a dirt road. All the while, the Conrad Hilton judge was in the back seat.
âWe decided to do interviews at the office instead of in the field .
âAt the office the next day, we heard that the security situation was getting worse. Zainab said I should go back to the hotel and pack our bags, and we could be on a plane in a few hours. âJust lie down in the back of the car on the ride back to Orchid,â she told me. So the Women for Women car
pulled up in the middle of the street and I was walking from the office gate to the car, when all of a sudden I heard âpow-pow-pow-pow.â About a hundred scared-shitless Congolese were running towards me. Christine yelled, âDonât run! Donât run!â But I ran straight back to the gate, and all these people were crowding around, trying to get back into the compound while the security guys were trying to close the gates.
âI stuck my arm in through the crowd and they pulled me in. Zainab was just standing there asking, âWhatâs going on?â
âI decided I wasnât going anywhere. So I started to film the rest of Zainabâs interview, then we heard shots again, right outside the gate. I dropped the camera and ran around the compound in circles, because there was nowhere to go. Zainab just laughed and said, âItâs worse in Iraq.â
âI was like, âStop laughing. Itâs not funny.â
âShe says, âI laugh in these situations.â
âWe left that afternoon.â
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RICKIâS WARNINGS ARE flashing in my head like a stoplight, so the news about Orchid being overbooked does not land well. In the States, I am not known for my restraint when unhappy. Now I feel as if I have one foot on the brake and one the accelerator . Every minute of my countdown to Congo, every warning, presses down harder on both.
But Iâve also been forewarned: People in Congo donât get mad. It would be viewed as a temper tantrumâitâs something you donât do, like crying in a board meeting. As one Congo travel veteran warned emphatically, âIf you lose it, just pack up; leave. You might as well never come back. You will have permanently lost the respect of the Congolese.â
So I smile at Christine and laugh. âFlexible is the name of the game in Congo,â I say. âItâs no problem.â
We pull off to the side of the road and I get my first glance of the border crossing, just a simple bridge, shorter than a city block. I recognize it from Lisa Lingâs report. I pull out my broadcast-quality HDV camera.
I position myself with the bridge in the background. Christine holds the camera for me, trying to be low-key. Itâs illegal to film borders. I try to control my face twitching and I dive right in with the commentary. âIâm standing on the border of Congo . . .â
As we approach the bridge, leaving Rwanda behind, Iâm amazed that this old, rotting wooden bridge from Belgian Congo is all that separates the country from Rwanda . On the other side of the bridge, a man lifts the old metal gate and lets us
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